Merlot: The Comeback Kid

In 2004, a line of dialogue in a comedy film sent Merlot sales into freefall. At the time, Merlot was California's most widely planted red variety, riding a decade of popularity built on its approachability and easy drinkability. Then Paul Giamatti's character in Sideways shouted "I am NOT drinking any Merlot!" and the grape's reputation cratered. Sales dropped measurably in the years that followed. The fact that one of the world's priciest and most coveted wines is made mostly from Merlot didn't seem to matter. The movie won.

Where Merlot comes from

Merlot is from Bordeaux, specifically the Right Bank. The name likely comes from the French word for blackbird, merle, because the birds were said to favor the ripe fruit. Cabernet Franc is a parent of both Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, making them half-siblings. Merlot ripens earlier than Cabernet Sauvignon, which makes it better suited to the cooler clay soils of Pomerol and Saint-Émilion. Cabernet Sauvignon does not ripen well in those cooler conditions, but Merlot thrives there.

Across the rest of Bordeaux, Merlot plays a supporting role in blends. It softens the tannic grip of Cabernet Sauvignon and adds body. Most inexpensive Bordeaux red is Merlot-based, prized for its softness and accessibility. The grape is easy to grow, forgiving in the winery, and delivers ripe fruit without demanding heroic viticulture.

The movie that tanked a grape

The 1990s were Merlot's decade in California. Winemakers and drinkers loved it because it delivered approachable, plummy red wine without the tannin and structure of Cabernet Sauvignon. You could drink it young. It paired with everything. It became shorthand for an easy, crowd-pleasing red.

Then Sideways came out in 2004. The film follows two friends on a wine-country road trip. One of them, Miles, is a wine obsessive who refuses to drink Merlot and praises Pinot Noir instead. The line "I am NOT drinking any Merlot!" became a cultural touchstone, and Merlot sales dropped in the years that followed.

The reputation damage lasted for years. The movie's shadow lingered longer than it should have.

Meanwhile, one of the greatest wines on earth is Merlot

Across the Atlantic, top Pomerol estates continued to produce some of the world's most sought-after wines, and they are predominantly Merlot. Pétrus comes from a tiny Right Bank property with clay soils that suit Merlot perfectly. The wine is rich, spicy, and structured. It ages for decades. Other leading Pomerol properties, including Lafleur and Trotanoy, make exceptional Merlot-dominant wines. So do top estates in Saint-Émilion. The grape's reputation in Bordeaux never wavered because the quality never did.

The contrast is worth noting. In the US, Merlot became a punchline. In France, it remained the foundation of some of the most prestigious wines on earth. The grape remained the same; only perceptions shifted.

What it's like to drink now

Merlot's reputation has been recovering gradually. The grape still delivers what made it popular in the first place: gentler tannins compared to Cabernet Sauvignon, with plum and dark cherry flavors and a medium-bodied feel. Right Bank Bordeaux, where Merlot dominates, pairs well with roast poultry, pork, and lighter red-meat dishes. Top bottles from Pomerol and Saint-Émilion can develop notes of tobacco and cedar as they mature. For the full profile, tasting notes, and recommended producers, see the Merlot varietal page.

---

Want a Merlot worth a second look? Tell our sommelier what you're cooking and we'll match you. Find My Wine →